AHA is water-soluble and works on the skin's surface to smooth texture and brighten tone, while BHA is oil-soluble and goes inside pores to clear oil, blackheads and breakouts. Choose AHA for dryness, dullness and uneven tone; choose BHA for oily, congested, blackhead-prone skin. Here is how to pick and use them.
In this article
- What AHA does
- What BHA does
- AHA vs BHA, compared
- How to use exfoliants safely
- Frequently asked questions
What AHA does
AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic and lactic acid) are water-soluble, so they work on the skin's surface. They loosen the bonds between dead skin cells to reveal smoother, brighter skin, improve uneven tone and soften the look of fine lines. Because they also have hydrating, humectant qualities, AHAs suit dry, dull or sun-damaged skin best.
What BHA does
BHA (salicylic acid) is oil-soluble, which means it can get inside the pore and dissolve the sebum, dead skin and debris that cause blackheads, whiteheads and breakouts. It is also anti-inflammatory, so it calms angry, congested skin. BHA is the clear choice for oily, acne-prone and blackhead-prone skin.
A wash-off BHA foam, a gentle way to bring salicylic acid into an oily, congested routine.
AHA vs BHA, compared
| AHA | BHA | |
|---|---|---|
| Solubility | Water-soluble (surface) | Oil-soluble (inside pores) |
| Best for | Dryness, dullness, uneven tone | Oily, congested, acne-prone skin |
| Targets | Texture, brightness, fine lines | Blackheads, whiteheads, breakouts |
| Examples | Glycolic, lactic acid | Salicylic acid |
For a weekly deep clean that pairs well with BHA, a clarifying clay mask like the Skin1004 Poremizing Quick Clay Stick Mask (€19.90) absorbs excess oil and unclogs pores.
How to use exfoliants safely
Less is more. Exfoliate once or twice a week to start, not daily, and never layer multiple strong acids at once unless your skin is used to them. Always follow with hydration and a moisturiser, and wear SPF daily, since exfoliated skin is more sun-sensitive. If your skin stings, peels or turns red, scale back, that is over-exfoliation.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use AHA and BHA together?
Yes, experienced skin can, but introduce them slowly and do not overdo it. Many people alternate nights or use a combined product. If you are new to acids, start with one.
Which is better for acne, AHA or BHA?
BHA. Because it is oil-soluble and gets inside the pore, salicylic acid is more effective for breakouts, blackheads and oily skin. AHA is better for tone and texture.
How often should I exfoliate?
Once or twice a week for most people. Daily exfoliation damages the barrier and causes more breakouts and sensitivity, not less.
Do I need sunscreen when using acids?
Yes, always. Exfoliating acids make skin more sensitive to UV, so daily SPF50+ is essential to protect your results.
Exfoliate the smart way
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